Catching up Over Cantonese

After nearly a month spent catching our breath in Bali, we were ready and anxious to embrace the invigorating energy of Hong Kong, Asia’s World City. A favorite for Trey and an undiscovered destination for Martin, we were looking forward to seeing friends and sinking our teeth into the traditional Cantonese cuisine of the world’s most visited city, according to a recent Euromonitor report. This vibrant metropolis captured Trey’s imagination during his years of business travel, when he especially enjoyed the diverse flavours, fashionable shopping and soaring skyscrapers, taking in the city by simply looking up.

As we began our descent, we both agreed that Hong Kong is certainly one of the most dramatic cities into which to fly. With its jagged, mountainous terrain that gives way to the South China Sea where small green islands dot the shimmering, reflective waters, the towers and high-rises of Hong Kong's skyline slowly revealed themselves as our plane made its final approach. The journey from the airport to our hotel on Hong Kong Island was delightfully easy with the city's seamless Airport Express – begging the question why arrival and city transfer in other world capitals (we're looking at you, New York) is such a migraine? 

With only a few short days in Hong Kong, and being fortunate to have several friends to visit, we wasted no time our first evening, heading to the very traditional Lin Heung Teahouse* for scrumptious roast goose, crispy pork and red bean pudding. 

The next morning, we charged up (and cooled down) with some Iced Americanos at Winston’s, a local watering hole in the emerging neighborhood of East Hong Kong where we stayed. Ready to face the heat, we made our way to the Star Ferry terminal via charming Harbour park and marveled at how many people were willingly running and exercising in the steam-room quality air. We took the quick ferry (another simple and cheap mode of transport) from Hong Kong Island to mainland Kowloon, reveling in the beauty of Victoria Harbour, which boasts one of the most stunning skylines in the world. In Kowloon, we made a b-line for Hong Kong's outpost of Eslite bookstore where we spent the better part of the morning enjoying the peace, quiet and simple design of the Taiwanese import.

After arriving to Hong Kong, we made our way to Lin Heung Teahouse for a late dinner of traditional Cantonese food (June 9). 

A meat heavy meal, one of our favorite dishes was the restaurant's crispy pork.

Better than our NYC take out, the beef with vegetables was another dinner hit. 

We fueled up for the day at trendy Winton's, coffeehouse by day, bar by night (June 10). 

The tiny coffee shop is simply designed with a timeless charm. 

On our way to the ferry port, we walked through well-kept Harbour Park, which with all its activity reminded us of New York's Westside Highway Hudson River Park. 

The Park also provided excellent views of Kowloon's skyline. 

Once we made it to Kowloon, we wandered through the stacks and shops of Eslite bookstore.

Besides books, Eslite houses a variety of in-store shops, everything from leather goods and stationary to planting supplies and bonsai.

Throughout the multi-level bookstore, there are many places to sit and enjoy a book or periodical with commanding views of Hong Kong Island. 

For lunch, we headed back to Hong Kong Island and its trendy Wan Chan neighborhood where we met up with Trey’s HK-based friends, Angus and JJ, who deciding that we’d been away from the Big Apple long enough, treated us to tasty deli fare at Morty’s Delicatessen. Post-lunch, we grabbed cold brew coffees at Elephant Grounds (both of these establishments JJ had designed; check out his take on Asia's art and design worlds on wanderlister.com), and then we spent the rest of the afternoon shopping the boutiques and galleries of the hip hood. As the sun began to slide into the Harbour, we toasted our cheery catch-up from the sky-high bar of ultra-modern Upper House. Rushing from one glam spot to another, we reunited with Nik, our Bali travel buddy who happened to be in town for work, as well as Trey’s friend and former colleague, Alethea, and her friend, Andy, for a gorgeous dinner at Mott 32 where crispy duck and lobster dumplings were stars of the exquisite meal. 

In the afternoon, we took the ferry back across Victoria Harbour to meet up with friends for lunch in the Wan Chai area.

First stop, Morty's Delicatessen, where we dined with Angus and JJ over big bowls chopped salads. 

Then it was on to Elephant Grounds for their coveted cold brew coffees (both spots were designed by JJ).

To cap off the fun day, we toasted high above the skyline at Upper House's chic bar.

Saturday night dinner with friends at glam Mott 32, which included the (gluten-free) lobster dumpling, a highlight. 

The meal's pièce de résistance was definitely the whole roast goose. 

Trey and Alethea catching up in Nik's Upper House hotel suite post-dinner. 

We began our next morning like locals by eating with long-time Hong Kong residents at the very hole-in-the-wall Sam Hui Yat dim sum restaurant* around the corner from our hotel. We enjoyed some gluten-free lo mai gai, and Martin tried the pork and veggie dim sum with recommendations by some very helpful regulars. Our afternoon of exploring the city with Nik left us very hungry, so we made our way to Mak’s Noodles for their famed pork brisket noodles. 

We started our Sunday at very local Sam Hui Yat for traditional morning dim sum (June 11).

Our favorite travel blog, Migrationology, had some food recommendations that we conveyed to the staff with the help of some locals.

Nothing like oodles of steamed dumplings to kick-start your day. 

We also enjoyed the traditional lo mai gai, which comes wrapped up in steamed lotus leaves. 

Opening the leaves revealed steamed sticky rice with chicken, Chinese sausage, mushrooms and scallions inside.  

The friendly (and steaming) dumpling man at Sam Hui Yat. 

A typical view of Hong Kong, a true vertical city. 

Trey and Nik ride the Central - Mid-Levels outdoor escalator, the longest moving sidewalk system in the world. 

The view looking into the city as we crossed into Hong Kong Park. 

Because of the sticky heat of Hong Kong, many commutes around the city take travelers through air conditioned shopping malls and covered walkways.  

Because "when in Hong Kong," we soon after decided to have an early dinner at a typical Chinese diner, Tsui Wah, where we ate pork chop on instant noodles, steamed and chilled okra with wasabi dipping sauce and Martin tried Hong Kong’s local specialty, sweet bread (condensed milk on buttered toast). After our feasting, we made our way back over to Kowloon to enjoy the renowned Hong Kong light show in which the city’s towers seemingly come to life under the night sky. After the lasers and flashing lights and to cap off our weekend in Hong Kong, we further indulged, this time with varieties of puddings at Dream Tofa, as we said our goodbyes to this glittering vertical city. 

After an afternoon of walking (and sweating), we wanted to fill our bellies with the famous Mak's Noodles. 

Our man, the noodle maker, at Mak's. 

The brisket noodles at Mak's are the restaurant's claim to fame. 

After so much meat and noodles in so little time, we opted for a side of delicious greens.

In Hong Kong, you either eat or shop, so we opted for more food at the mainstream diner, Tsui Wah.

We started with sweet bread, which is grilled toasted topped with sweetened condensed milk. 

The chilled okra was a gooey favorite, dipped in the accompanying wasabi soy sauce. 

And who wouldn't enjoy park chop on top of instant noodles? Felt like being back in college again. 

Patrons of Tsui Wah feasting on traditional Cantonese fare at this modern tea restaurant. 

After dinner, we once again made the trek across Victoria Harbour to watch Hong Kong's popular light show. 

The sun setting on Hong Kong as we crossed the water to Kowloon. 

The city all lit up and its soaring skyscrapers seemingly came to life.

Our final Hong Kong treat, bowls of tofu pudding from Dream Tofa. 

Our time in Hong Kong was short but truly delicious and memorable. We can’t wait to come back to see old friends again and continue to eat our way through the Cantonese cuisine of this world city!

* Migrationology recommended; One of our favorite travel bloggers.