Slow Living in Laos

After the frenetic mania of Vietnam, we were primed and ready for the calm stillness of laid back Laos. The country’s unassuming capital, Vientiane, was our first port of call, and after hectic Hanoi, we realized that our senses were out of sorts. This tranquil town was… Quiet. Despite activity on the streets, we heard no honking from the cars, buses or motos speeding by. People were openly and freely smiling and waving at us. Sidewalks appeared to be for walking, rather than a secondary moto-road as in Vietnam. And while for several days after arriving we maintained the reflexive tick of checking each and every direction before crossing a street for fear of being run down by moto or tuk-tuk, we quickly felt at ease in seemingly relaxed, welcoming and low-pressure Laos.

The timing of our visit was intentional as Laos is one of Martin’s favorite countries, and after a few days spent in the cafes and along the riverfront of Vientiane, we moved north to stunning Vang Vieng where we celebrated his birthday. The bourgeoning village sits along the tea colored Nam Song River and is hugged by a dramatic, jagged limestone karst mountain range—a stunning vista we took in from our splurge at the delightful Riverside Boutique Resort.  Staying true to the town’s outdoorsy reputation, we made good use of the resort’s push bikes as we explored its surrounding natural beauty. And when we were fully relaxed, we closed out our time there with a peaceful sunset yoga class in an outdoor shala on the edge of a wild field just below the awe-inspiring hills, a beautiful and serene place in which to set intentions for the start of Martin’s new year. 

Vientiane, set on the banks of the Mekong River and across from the Thai border, has recently redeveloped its riverfront, which when we visited was full of activity, including exercise groups, food vendors, and couples strolling at sunset (March 30). 

A short minibus ride north brought us to Vang Vieng, where we celebrated Martin's birthday at a picturesque boutique hotel beside the Nam Song River (March 31).

We used bicycles to explore the small farms and villages set amongst the jaw-dropping landscape (April 2). 

As we rode along the winding roads, we saw local children splashing in streams, while adults lounged in hammocks and under the shade of small porches--it was a Sunday after all! 

With the daytime temperature in the mid-90s, we were thankful for the moody, rolling cloud cover surrounding the hills.  

Renewed and recharged, we next headed to lovely Luang Prabang for some delicious Franco-Laotian fusion cuisine and culture. We watched the radiant monks move along the streets, collecting alms and returning to the monasteries each evening as we took in the dazzling royal palace and glittering stupa perched high on top of a central hill. We strolled the night market (one of the most well organized and clean markets we’ve ever seen!) as the local sellers traded the day’s gossip while tourists purchased colorful fisherman pants and woven textiles. And we delighted in the tastes and smells of the night market’s food district, a small alleyway stuffed with stalls selling grilled fish and other meats on sticks and all-you-can-eat bowls of vegetables and rice.

But of all the charm in Luang Prabang, our favorite sight was just a few kilometres away at Kuang Si Falls, an impressive three-tiered travertine waterfall that fills turquoise-blue pools spilling over many cascades down a sloping, wooded hill. We arrived early, and nearly had the entire scene to ourselves as we walked upstream and then hiked to the top of the falls, which offers a panoramic view of the surrounding hills and farmland. As if we hadn’t already found peace in gentle Laos, the breathtaking beauty and cool tranquility of Kuang Si quickly got us into the spirit.   

As we walked to dinner on our first night in Luang Prabang, we stumbled upon Wat Manorom, a small monestary where monks were settling in for the evening (April 3).

The bustling, crowded night market in Luang Prabang was full of activity and tourist treats.

The night market's food district was smoky from the small grills that cooked various meats on long sticks. 

For less than $2 USD, market visitors could fill their plates with heaps of local food, served hot or cold. 

An early morning walk brought us to multi-tiered Kuang Si Falls, falling 60 metres from large pools at the top (April 5). 

After climbing the steep trail to the top of Kuang Si and crossing the large pools of water via narrow bamboo walkways, we realized there were stairs (!) on the opposite side of the falls. 

We had to stop and take in one of the many beautiful cascades downstream from Kuang Si Falls. 

The many tiers and cascades are the result of travertine formed by the spring water of Kuang Si. 

Leaving Kuang Si, we passed a beautiful organic farm, and of course, we had to stop the tuk-tuk to see what they were growing!

At the farm, there were beautiful rows of salad greens and "two mad dogs" who moved us to jump back in the tuk-tuk and head on our way.

Luang Prabang is the former capital of Laos, and its royal palace glittered in the bright sun. 

We had a delicious Lao-French dinner at dreamy Manda de Laos, set upon several UNESCO designated lotus ponds. 

From Luang Prabang, we made our way up the mighty Mekong via the only appropriate mode of transit to leave this laid-back land: a two-day soporific slow boat journey to the Thai border town of Huay Xai. The leisurely ride gave us ample time to take in the sights of river life—small villages and rice terraces dotting the hills, children bathing and playing in the rushing water, buffalo submerged, attempting to keep cool while goats climbed along the rocky shoreline.

Our 2-day slow boat journey up the Mekong would take us north-west toward the Thai border (April 6). 

The boat's captain steered us along the water, dodging rocks and river life. 

We saw lots of water buffalo along the river, mostly lying on the shores or submerged in the water to keep cool. 

More lazy buffalo at the river's edge as we sailed along. 

We traveled for about eight hours each day, offering plenty of time for reading, journaling, and taking in the sights. 

Several slow boats parked along the river's edge. 

Our boat was filled with both tourists and locals, some of whom we'd drop off along our route. 

But the boat rarely came to a halt, getting  only close enough to shore for the traveler to jump onto rocks or sometimes other boats. 

We also saw herds of goats, including their young, foraging for food along the Mekong. 

The slow boat was a beautiful way to travel to Thailand, and see another side of Laos away from the towns and tourists. 

As we finally arrived in Thailand, we couldn’t help looking back fondly on our wonderful time in Laos, which may have been slightly short but sweet nonetheless.