The Balkan Beat

Croatia’s Adriatic Ease

The beach pebbles dimpled our skin, while the sun beat down relentlessly, driving us into sea-green waters that shimmered from shore to horizon. The cool relief of floating in the salty surf, so clear that we could see the dazzling dance of tiny fish below, was so hypnotic that we were only brought out of our summery spell whenever we raised our heads to peer up at the stunning shoreline in the distance. The towering island cliffs, garlanded in lush pine, gave way to the jagged, chalky rock-face that crashed down to the craggy shore. There was hardly a need to move a muscle, the pristine yet briny water keeping us afloat, while a feeling of complete and utter joy enveloped us. We're in heaven. We'd arrived to Croatia’s beautiful coast.

From the 'sweet life' in Italy, we arrived to busy Split, Croatia, and took a ferry to the farthest village on the farthest island off the Dalmatian Coast, Komiža, Vis (July 28).

Sunsets over the bay turned this old Croatian fishing village orange. 

Doors and shutters throughout the village were painted a pale sea-foam green, which we adored.  

A long walk around the bay and down a steep cliff brought us to our own little slice of heaven, a private beach amidst the rocks. 

The panoramic view of the Adriatic as we made our way each morning to our little alcove on the shore. 

Not only was the old village quaint but beautiful churches and buildings dotted the landscape across the island. 

We loved the peek-a-boo views of the bay in-between buildings in Komiža. 

During our time on Vis Island, the European heatwave began to creep into the Adriatic, causing us to spend most days wearing as little as possible. 

For many years, we had both heard about the beauty of Croatia’s stunning beaches and striking waters along its famed Dalmatian Coast. What was once an emerging destination should now be considered fully developed, a feat accomplished in no more than a decade due to the great publicity that this European gem has received. While we were thrilled to finally explore this Balkan paradise, we weren’t keen to be in the mix of myriad summer holiday-goers--the season in full swing with our late July arrival. So, instead we opted for the farthest flung island from the mainland, Vis, as we settled in for a week’s retreat in its farthest flung village, Komiža, a quiet-ish centuries-old fishing village. Amidst the bustling cafes, markets and gelato stands of the aged town, we found our home in a private apartment, from which we crafted a regular routine that centered around visits to the aforementioned isolated beach that could only be reached by scaling a seaside cliff. Our daily swims, home-cooked meals and beach reading was the rejuvenation we needed to prepare ourselves for the forthcoming five weeks of more-or-less constant travel through the rest of the Balkans and into Central Europe--all during one of the Continent's hottest summers on record and the infamously named “Lucifer Heatwave”. After a quick Bosnian side-trip, we would head high into the region's hills, desperate to escape the oppressive lowland heat!

Reflections in Bosnia

Both young schoolchildren during the decade-long Yugoslavian conflicts and horrific Bosnian War, we have early memories of television reports and social studies discussions on the carnage and destruction throughout this region; so, it was with heavy hearts that we took a day's detour to Mostar in the former war-ravaged nation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH). Reports of a new Bosnia, emerging from the twenty-year gone conflict, safe enough for outsiders to visit, bringing with them much-needed income of tourism, inspired our brief stopover in the cultural capital of the southern Herzegovina region.  

After our island holiday, we arrived to picturesque Mostar in the country's southern Herzegovina region (Aug 4).  

Walking the steeply curved Stari Most (Old Bridge), a medieval arched bridge from which the town Mostar gets it's name. 

The realities of war were a present reminder throughout ravaged Mostar with marks of bullets on many of the town's buildings. 

Charming Mostar was badly damaged during the Bosnian War, including the Stari Most which had to be rebuilt during reconstruction.

Many burnt out buildings are still abandoned amongst the rebuilding and new construction throughout Mostar. 

The unfortunately named "sniper tower" for its role in the war has become a canvas for street artists offering messages of peace, hope and unity.  

Vibrant murals and artistic expression cover the still empty shelled out high-rise. 

Locals and tourists alike attempt to enter the building and make the dangerous climb to the roof, which offers sprawling views of Mostar. 

Amidst the rubble and sad reminders of war, Mostar is rising as a popular tourist destination and cultural center. 

The city of Mostar was, unfortunately, nearly demolished during the conflict, and in fact, the ancient town’s namesake, Stari Most ("Old Bridge"), was destroyed by tankers but subsequently rebuilt in the same style with international funds. Throughout the city, bullet holes still mar and dot the walls of many buildings, a reminder of the lasting impact of the ravages of war. We felt a sense of reverence for the lives lost and impacted by this sad time in history and were grateful for the reminder that time can help heal the wounds of conflict and war.

Circling Montenegro’s National Parks

As we left Bosnia, Lucifer’s blistering breath closed tight around us, and we took the long bus journey back into Croatia, then along the small strip of Bosnian coast, only to re-enter Croatia once more for our overnight stay in beautiful and wildly popular Dubrovnik (made even more in-demand by Game of Thrones fans). The next day, after nearly two days of travel, we arrived to Montenegro, Europe’s newest nation as of 2006, which is about the size of Connecticut and is fast developing an outsized reputation for its stunning coastline and magnificent mountainous parklands. What the country may lack in scale or modern history, it definitely makes up for in its natural beauty and diversity, packing a mighty punch of scenery. Our first point of entry in the country was the winding Bay of Kotor and its historic walled city that is set deep within the massifs of the Dinaric Alps, making it as charming as it is dramatic. It was also our first introduction to the "Balkan Diet" plan: Flintstone-sized platters of various grilled meats and fries, some 500 grams of protein, that while delicious was a bit overwhelming (no wonder the people of this particular region are so big and tall!).

After a quick visit to Dubrovnik, Croatia, we found ourselves in lovely Kotor, Montenegro, which sits at the tip of the winding bay in the middle of the Dinaric Alps (Aug 7). 

There are numerous churches inside the old city walls of Kotor, such as the slight Church of St. Luke, which was built in the 12th century.  

Inside the Church of St. Nicholas, which was built in more recent times, an impressive display of religious icons decorates the alter. 

The winding 28 kilometre long Bay of Kotor produced some magical vibrant sunsets. 

The fading sun turned the mountains and hills surrounding the Bay and Old Town bright pink. 

The cliffside views overlooking Montenegro's famous Jaz Beach (Aug 8). 

Just south of famed coastal playground Budva lies the dreamy islet of Sveti Stefan, which is now home to an exclusive 5-star resort. 

We soon hopped in our rental car and proceeded to circle the small state, exploring all four of Montenegro's distinct national parks. As we drove, the incredible landscape changed right before our eyes but not without a few hold-our-breath moments of white-knuckled driving on single lane roads that clung to mountain cliff sides, made all the more thrilling with barricade-free, many hundred metre drops. We found the hair-raising routes worth managing as we finally breathed in the cool, fresh mountain air (so crisp compared to the overheated ozone down below), while marveling at otherworldly landscapes, which this little country has been blessed with in disproportionate quantity.  

From Montenegro's coast, we drove up into the interior near the former capital of Cetinje, which was surrounded by burning forest and smokey hills because of drought and heat. 

We were happy for the cooler relief of Lovćen National Park, which is home to the high mountain of the same name (and backdrop to Kotor).  

Lovcen is home to Njegoš Mausoleum, built on the park's second highest peak (1657m) honoring the country's greatest hero. 

The high vantage provided breathtaking views of the landscape, which once caused George Bernard Shaw to exclaim, ‘Am I in paradise or on the moon?’.

Many locals make the holy pilgrimage up the many stairs and steep trails to Ostrog Monastery, which has been built into a near vertical cliff (Aug 9).  

As we made our way to Plužine, the roads became more narrow and un-guarded, hanging on to the cliffs high above the Piva River below. 

The twisting roads passed through numerous tunnels, rough and unfinished, carved from the mountainside. 

Our small yurt on Lake Piva, which was dammed in the mid-1970s, afforded striking views of the water and sunset. 

A local getaway from the extreme heat, Lake Piva was busy with activity during the day but calmed as the sun fell behind the hills. 

The next morning, it was more tunnels and tight turns as we made our way to Durmitor National Park in the country's north (Aug 10). 

As the roads climbed up, the views of Lake Piva in the morning light were truly stunning. 

Although Durmitor became a protected national park in the mid-1950s, many farmers still toil the land and raise livestock in the hills. 

Flat fields of harvested buckwheat offered great views of the surrounding peaks. 

The awesome landscape of Durmitor massif boasts more than 40 peaks above 2,000 metres (6,500ft). 

Besides sheep, we saw a lot of cattle grazing on the lush fields (a difference from the dried up lands at lower levels). 

The park afforded many opportunities to stop and soak up the incredible views. 

One of our favorite views was of Sedlena Greda peak (2,227m) with horses grazing in the fields below. 

We ended our day of road tripping with a picnic high above the famed Black Lake, one of the park's many glacial lakes. 

The next morning before we hiked around the Black Lake, we grabbed fresh mountain berries from the market stands at the trailhead. 

The calm waters of the Black Lake reflect the dark greens and blues of the evergreens and pines beyond. 

One of the beautiful country roads that led through Durmitor park. 

In the Durmitor region, lies Tara River Canyon, Europe's and one of the world's deepest gorges. 

Our final park to visit was Biogradska Gora National Park, site of one of the last three virgin forests in all of Europe. 

The Pavlova Strana Viewpoint, near the country's capital of Podgorica, offers views of Skadar Lake and the near prehistoric landscape (Aug 12).

Climbing Albania’s Accursed

Having whetted our appetite for stunning mountainscapes in Montenegro, we were exhilarated by the opportunity to spend a full day trekking between two old-time mountain villages in the Albanian Alps. Another comeback story, Albania had endured years of oppression and strife at the hands of the Hoxha totalitarian regime, which politically isolated this nation from the rest of the world post WWII. The country is certainly beautiful, but sadly, its collective efforts to overcome repression can still be felt today. Sure, we both suffered nasty spells of food poisoning and felt our pulses quicken during a hostile bout of road rage en route to Koman Lake (we’ll tell you the story over tea some time…), yet even still, we wouldn’t have wanted to miss out on the awe-inspiring experience of walking from Valbonë to Theth over the mighty Accursed Mountains.

Our first stop in Albania was Shkodër, just across the border from Montenegro and one of the Balkan Peninsula's oldest towns (Aug 13). 

Like cities and towns everywhere, old men gathered on the green to play cards and dominoes. 

Over time, Shkodër has retained its importance and relevance in the region due to its position close to the Adriatic Sea and Italian port cities. 

The next day, we took a ferry up the Koman Reservoir, which is surrounded by near vertical canyon walls, toward the village of Valbona where we would begin our trek (Aug 14). 

Lake Koman, created in the late 1970s, completely fills the valley between the forested hills and steep cliffs, with many different animal habitats along the way. 

Quaint and charming Valbona, Albania, sits in Valbonë Valley National Park in the country's northern corner and is home to less than 1,000 permanent reisdents. 

We used the afternoon to stretch our legs on the many trails around the village and take in the beautiful scenery of the valley. 

The next morning, we began our day-long trek from Valbona to Thethi, crossing the Accursed Mountains into the neighboring valley (Aug 15). 

The trek takes about 7-8 hours and follows an old mule path, still in use by some even today! 

At the pass, some 760 metres (2,500ft) above the Valbonë Valley (and some 1,000m down to Thethi), we were met by a local pup who roams between the two villages. 

At the top, we looked out over the Valbonë Valley to take in the incredible views and revel in the accomplishment of how far we'd come. 

Hooray! We made it!  

The village of Theth is more traditional, and stands out in this Muslim country for its history of Christian tradition which its inhabitants brought with them some 350 years ago. 

Nestled in the Thethi Valley, the Church of Theth was built in the late 1800s and still stands today. 

Still remote and hard to reach, we had to take an SUV up and over rough roads and trails to make our return to Shkodër, but we once again enjoyed panoramic views. 

Alive in the Hills of Slovenia

With Europe’s heatwave continuing, and the Balkan shorelines packed with Adriatic holidayers beating the sweltering temps, the mountains of the peninsula quickly became our relief from both the the hot weather and teeming crowds. One of our favorite experiences of the Balkans was exploring the popular, verdant Alpine nation of Slovenia. After weeks of drought and heat (including numerous bush fires in Montenegro), we were relieved to be in the mountains of Slovenia with cooler conditions and even… rain (!) in the forecast. Boasting more untouched forest and water per capita of any country in the EU, Slovenia brought a much-needed reprieve.   And an impromptu rendezvous with Megan, Martin’s friend and former colleague, and her family, coincidentally in the country, made our time in Slovenia even more special. Visiting the fantastical lakes, rugged gorges and stunning Julian Alps made it clear to us why Slovenia is now one of Europe’s most popular countries to visit.

Arriving from the southern Balkans, Slovenia was a relief in both temperature and lifestyle of more traditional European villages, such as Kranj, our fist stop (Aug 18).

Just outside of the country's capital city, Kranj offered an alternative artsy side with street art, galleries and boutique shops. 

Our adorable Airbnb in Kranj, Layer House, was part hotel, part cafe, and part art gallery. 

During our visit, Layer House had curated a gallery of works coming out of the Bosnian War. 

The lush green rolling hills and Alpine scenery of Slovenia was a drastic contrast to the dry and arid landscape from which we'd come. 

We started our next morning with a hike around Vintgar Gorge, a 1.6KM gorge just outside of Bled (Aug 19).

The Vintgar stream has eroded the limestone cliffs to create rapids, falls and steep canyon walls. 

We were so happy to see rain and misty landscape later in the day! 

We enjoyed a fun Saturday night catch up with friends overlooking beautiful Lake Bled. 

Sunday provided clearer skies and a fairytale view of Lake Bled, set amidst the Julian Alps (Aug 20).

Because of its location, Slovenia is at a cross-roads of many different cultures and trade routes, which is showcased in its architectural varieties. 

We spent the day at Slovenia's largest lake, Bohinj, which was active with kayaks, volleyball and cyclists.  

Nearby, we hiked up to Savica Waterfall, which cuts a deep gorge and feeds the headwaters of Sava Bohinjka.

In the cool evenings, we enjoyed walking the small roads that led through green pastures.  

We continued on, driving higher into the Julian Alps, which were named for Julius Caesar who founded a municipality at the foot of the impressive mountains (Aug 21). 

We drove toward Vršič Pass on what is now known as the "Russian Road" for the one-time POWs who helped build it along with small Orthodox chapels. 

Martin blended in to the natural landscape of the mountains, both a swathed in green. 

Vršič Pass at 1,611 metres (5,285ft) is Slovenia's highest mountain pass. 

Returning back to Podkoren, where we'd spend the night, the setting summer sun turned the surrounding mountains beautiful shades of pink. 

The next morning, we made the ascent to Tromeja, the triple border region in Slovenia's far northwest which offered scenic views (Aug 22).

At the top of Tromeja was a marker defining the borders between Slovenia, Italy and Austria. 

Even cows have itches they can't scratch--we loved this beautiful breed of Slovenian cattle!

Completing our circle of Slovenia's west, we returned to the country's attractive capital city of Ljubljana. 

Ljubljana's Castle Hill offers extraordinary views of the old city as well as a close up look at the historic building itself. 

Crossing the Ljubljanica River, the city's stately Dragon Bridge was built in the early 1900s when Ljubljana was still ruled by the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. 

Ljubljana also had a youthful, creative edge including large warehouses that were used by artists. 

The city offers a lively waterfront, chockablock with cafes, restaurants and bars, perfect for an evening stroll. 

Sunsets throughout our time in the Balkans impressed, but we couldn't think of a lovelier place to end our journey than here in delightful Ljubljana. 

Our weeks spent on the beaches and (mostly) in the mountains of the Balkans left us both appreciative of the fact that this incredibly diverse region has much to offer and will certainly continue to draw tourists and travelers for its natural beauty, ancient history and fascinating mix of cultures.